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Installing Dashcam

15K views 49 replies 12 participants last post by  CerberusRogue  
#1 ·
Hi - I've had my Q3 for a year now but have only just registered with you.It's a 1.4 TFSi, Tiptronic . So far, very happy with it. The petrol engine is so much sweeter than the VW diesels I've had before - and it's quiet.I've been wanting a dashcam for ages and recently chose one that doesn't have suction cups and wires all over the place. It's a Rexing V1 - from Amazon.I've been pleased with the recording quality - and it fits behind the rear view mirror very neatly.It's not easy to view the screen in this position without moving the mirror, but it is easy to remove the SD card and copy the files to a computer. I just used the screen for setting it up.My only issue concerns reflections of the dashboard in bright sunshine.I'm going to experiment with some polarising film in front of the camera lens to see if this will reduce the problem.Thought you might be interested in a few photos of the installation.
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This shows the camera in place behind the mirror.
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This shows the Fuse 37 slot - controlled by ignition circuit.
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This shows the piggy back connector to the 20A fuse 37.
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I took the side panel off the dashboard to help thread the power cable to the fusebox and made the ground connection to a handy bolt. The surplus cable was bundled and left behind the panel.
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This final photo shows the connector in the drop down box. The power socket was from Maplin.Quite an easy job - hope it might help someone.RegardsSteve
 
#2 ·
Interesting about the reflections, cannot say I have had any problems like that with mine, and it is the same position...different cam of course.
You could try the polarising filter but it will cut the light transmission down quite a lot which could make the camera much worse at night.
 
#4 ·
Nice pictures and thank you for sharing. I have a similar set up to yours and I seem to have an issue with reflections from the dashboard in strong sunlight as well.Welcome to the club.
 
#6 ·
Hi SJ and welcome.I'm another Norfolk resident - I'm considering a dashcam and like what you've done, I assume you still have a wire running up from the drop down box then up the side of the window and long the top to where it connects to the cam?
 
#7 ·
@Howler
</font>That's exactly what I did, albeit on the opposite side of the car. I ran left along the head lining, down the A-pillar, behind the glove box, along the underside of the centre console to the cigarette lighter.</font>
</font>I've now bought the female cigarette lighter adapter so that I can re-run the cable right along the top of the windscreen and down to the fuse box. If someone can let me know which fuses they piggybacked on I'll wire it in!</font>
 
#8 ·
Hi

I fitted my dash cam just the other week, the fitting photos you've seem are the same way I fitted mine, up the side panel at the windscreen and then along the head lining, what I did wiring wise was,find a empty ingnition feed,there's a few, (not direct feed) I took the ingnition feed through a 2 amp fuse, find a good earth and bobs your unc
 
#10 ·
Ok, will try that fuse. Do i connect positive and negative cables from the camera to the same fuse, or two different? One of the photos above suggests the latter.
any chance of another photo of how someone did it?
 
#12 ·
CerberusRogue said:
Ok, will try that fuse. Do i connect positive and negative cables from the camera to the same fuse, or two different? One of the photos above suggests the latter.
any chance of another photo of how someone did it?
I'd find it extremely strange if you connected both positive and negative to the same fuse. Fuses only cover the positive feed, the negative needs to be connected to the car chassis.
What the pictures above show is exactly that - positive piggybacking off the fuse, negative being connected to an earth point on the chassis.
If you are not sure how to connect this in, I would strongly suggest you consult an auto electrician, else you may do more harm than good.
It also all depends how you want your camera to work. With fuse 37 it will only work when the ignition is on, and switch off when the ignition is switched off (as power is cut to the power sockets which fuse 37 drives). Personally I don't want my camera on 24x7 by it being permanently live, as it has no power feed control (there are those such as the Blackvue which will switch off if the voltage drops too low), so on/off with the ignition is fine for what I want
 
#14 ·
thanks everyone. I'll get a fuse piggyback, a new battery for my multimetre and report back when either my car is burnt to the ground or my camera is wired!
 
#16 ·
CerberusRogue said:
thanks everyone. I'll get a fuse piggyback, a new battery for my multimetre and report back when either my car is burnt to the ground or my camera is wired!
Well at least you'll have it on camera
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#17 ·
Boxbrownie said:
CerberusRogue said:
thanks everyone. I'll get a fuse piggyback, a new battery for my multimetre and report back when either my car is burnt to the ground or my camera is wired!
Well at least you'll have it on camera
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You should be on stage BB
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#18 ·
essjay, any chance you know what size the top nut is you put on the earth screw to attach the black cable? I'm assuming I shouldn't have one on there already...
I'd rather not keep buying nuts in homebase until I find one that fits!
 
#21 ·
CerberusRogue said:
essjay, any chance you know what size the top nut is you put on the earth screw to attach the black cable? I'm assuming I shouldn't have one on there already...
I'd rather not keep buying nuts in homebase until I find one that fits!
It was an M10 nut - there was just enough thread exposed on the bolt stud so it would screw on, as is.
BTW - I've just checked - it was fuse No. 37 position - it was a 20A fuse that works through the ignition.There were some empty permanently live positions in the fuse board (39 & 40), but I didn't use these.Although the camera has the facility to monitor when the car's parked, the camera manufacturer didn't recommend this, as charging the camera battery for more than a week will shorten its life.<strike>Neither I didn't use the fuse feeding the in-car power sockets, as I didn't want the camera turning on every time I unlocked the doors. </strike> This only applies to the iPhone/USB charger outlet in the centre console.Here's a photo of the fuse board - 20A fuse removed for clarity.
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BTBTW - I'm experimenting with some polarising plastic film over the camera lens to see if that reduces windscreen reflections in bright light - so far so good.
 
#22 ·
essjay, fuse 37 is what I used - and in the handbook that states that it protects the front and rear power sockets so turns on/off with the ignition.
So I'm not too sure what you meant by "Neither I didn't use the fuse feeding the in-car power sockets, as I didn't want the camera turning on every time I unlocked the doors." as with fuse 37 that's exactly what you have used?
Unless the fuse arrangement on an RSQ3 is different to your Q3 - always possible I guess.
There is also the option of fuse 36 (cigarette lighter), but I chose not to use that
 
#23 ·
Thanks! Off to Homebase to buy an M10 nut.
Your fusebox looks totally different to mine, see my photo below:-( Need to find a fusebox map then I think....

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#24 ·
Hawkeye,Interesting - Fuse slot 36 is blank on my car - it's only a Q3 SE 1.4TFSI auto.I don't have the cigarette lighter socket - just front and rear power sockets. I've just checked, and you're right - the power sockets are on the same circuit controlled by the ignition.I was confused (it doesn't take a lot) by the iPhone charger in the centre console.This is made live by the unlocking of the doors - I thought the power sockets were the same.Anyway - Fuse 37 is the way to go.I'll edit my posts to avoid any more confusion.
 
#25 ·
CerberusRogue said:
Thanks! Off to Homebase to buy an M10 nut.
Your fusebox looks totally different to mine, see my photo below:-( Need to find a fusebox map then I think....

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Strikes me that the fuse arrangements are all different, according to the spec of the car.I can't read the fuse numbers on your photo, but I'd try Fuse 37, which seems to be the consensus.Probably one of the 20A fuses on bottom left.Good luck, and with your nut!!
 
#26 ·
Hi mate
The empty fuse spaces on your fuse box, one of them should have an ignition feed, when you find it you must wire your camera to the dead end of the fuse space, that means if you have a wiring fault on that circuit your camera is protected.if a fuse is not supplied with the camera then fit a 2 or 5 amp fuse.
I hope that makes sense !!!!