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HOWTO: Retrofitting rear view camera

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53K views 62 replies 15 participants last post by  spike  
#1 ·
Short guide how I did it.

Few words before starting:
Take your time, don't do it in hurry, you might break something. When taking things apart, it's important to keep track what goes where. In this case, it's luckily just few bits and pieces. Keep calm and think before act. I'll borrow some pictures that I found, and some from different guides I used. Hopefully this will be complete guide from start to finish. Remember I drive left hand car, so your trunk setup might be mirror what you can see in these pictures. Before doing anything, please read this guide thru and find all the connectors and all the wires I'm talking about. Note, that I'm not taking any responsibility what so ever you making changes to your own car. Errors and changes expected!

What you need:
- New handle with camera (5N0827566AA)
- Controller unit (8U0907441)
- Controller unit holder (8U0035209) Not necessary, but needed for total OEM installation
- Wire loom from camera to controller unit, includes power cables and data cable
- Wire loom from controller unit to power and CANbus, includes power cables and CANhigh and CANlow cables
- Wire loom from controller unit to MMI3G, includes only data cable 2 pins

You can get whole package from different vendors. I don't know part numbers for wiring kits for sure (maybe 8U0971148AC), so it might be good to buy all in on package. Some examples:

http://www.carsystems.pl/audi-q3-8u0-rear-highline-camera-kit-8u0907441,id749.html
http://www.kufatec.de/shop/en/audi/q3/q3-8u/complete-bundle-audi-rear-view-camera-q3-8u

Or you can buy only cable harness here and other parts where you can find:
http://www.kufatec.de/shop/en/Audi/Q3/Q3-8U/APS-Advanced-Rear-View-Camera-Harness-Audi-Q3
You could try eBay too.

Tools needed:
- Radio removal tools ( Example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/380777537257 )
- Plastic pry tools ( Example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/121461776587 )
- VCDS for coding or visit to local dealer
- Some screw drivers
- 10mm wrench
- Cable ties
- Long metallic wire etc. for pulling the wires thru
- Multimeter tool
- Some wire. (carsystem.pl wires were too short)
- Soldering tools OR tools for braze / crimp joints
- heat shrink and tape to make your connections safe after connecting
- Any other tool you like, knife example.

Here we go.

Taking things apart:
- Take breakdown triangle and covers from lamps away from trunk lid. You will find four (4) plastic black pins holding the trunk lid lining, 2 under the triangle and 1 each side under the covers. Pull those away with pry tool. Then use pry tool carefully to remove trunk lid lining, down gray part. Start from bottom.
Image

- Then, remove two (2) plastic black pins holding white upper trunk lid lining part, and use pry tool to remove it too.
Image

- You are done with trunk lid. Now remove trunk side lining cover hatch. Note: all guides are suggesting that you have to remove whole trunk side lining and rear end cover mask. I didn't do it! So don't do it.
Image

- Use pry tools to lift rear foot strip up, no need to remove all the way! (Pics 1 and 2). Use pry tools to remove front foot strip. First remove pin behind the bonnet opener lever and pull lever away. Then remove one (1) black plastic pin holding the strip down with pry tools and finally use pry tools to remove whole front foot strip away.
Image

Now we are done destroying the car. Let the assembly begin.

Making things work:
- First, remove the old handle and replace it with handle with camera, 10mm wrench needed here.
Image

- Connect cable harness with power cables and data cable to camera. Only one cable fits here, so there is no room for error. Then follow other cables and use cable ties to secure the cable. Remove rubber grommet, just with light force, there is no clips or anything keeping it down. Follow cables thru it and then under the trunk side lining. You might need a help of long wire etc.
Image

- Connect Control unit. Cable from camera goes to left, gray connector. Green connector gets the long cable going to MMI3G and brown will be empty. Connect also big black connector. Connect black cable to earth point under the trunk side lining.
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- Now it is time to take a break and think next move. There are 2 possible ways to continue here. You can either connect power cable from control unit on a new fuse box in front and CANbus cables near CANbus unit under the steering wheel. Or you can use what is inside your trunk already. I used trunk method, it was faster and cleaner, this is the “my way” of doing this. I'll provide both install ways here, you can make your choice.

1. Use metallic wire etc. to pull your wires (MMI3G 2pins, power (+) and CANbus pins high and low behind the trunk lining to under the backseat strip and then continue forward until your cables are under the steering wheel. Connect power (+) to new unused pin in fuse box (you might need to remove lining under the steering wheel) and then connect your CANbus low and high to CANbus cables.
Image

2. This is valid only for models with preparation for trailer coupling! If you don't have that, we have to find another CANbus for you to use. Use metallic wire etc. to pull your wires (MMI3G 2pins behind the trunk lining to under the backseat strip and then continue forward until your cables are under the steering wheel. Connect power cable to Radio's power cable in trunk. Make sure you connect to right one with multimeter tool. (red-yellow thick cable). Pull your CANbus cable to another side of the trunk under the rear end cover mask. Locate red multiple pin connector. This is used to hook up trailer wiring harness. It might be connected to trailers control unit or not, depending your cars setup. There are 2 wires, orange-green on PIN 7 CANbus high and orange-brown on PIN 8 CANbus low. Connect CANbus cables to these with soldering etc.

- Last but not least you have to connect data cables to MMI3G. First, use radio removal tools to pull the radio out.
Image

- Then locate the QUADLOCK connector behind it. You should have 2 wires,transparent and black with pre connected heads. This is how to connect those. Transparent PIN 11 and black PIN 5:
Image


VCDS Part:
- Address 19 (CANbus unit) -> Installation list -> 6C Reverse Camera [SELECT]
- Address 5F (For vehicles with navigation +) -> Long coding -> Byte 7 -> set Bit 1 to 1
- Address 5F (For vehicles with RMC only) -> Long coding -> Byte 6 -> set Bit 2 to 1
- Address 6C (reverse camera) Coding:
1030015 = automatic trailer coupling, with APS+
1000015 = RVC only
1020015 = APS+, without automatic trailer coupling
1010015 = automatic trailer coupling, without APS+

And now we are done and ready to test the system. Please, check things before powering up and make sure you find all the right wires before starting. Errors and changes expected! Don't do anything if you are not sure! I did some experimental connections, but that does not mean that you should too. I can provide also the original PDF instructions for you to follow.
Ask me if you want to know more.

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Edited by: DyyD
 
#3 ·
In total, it took me about 3 hours. One hour went completely Elsa's view and finding the right CANbus.

Note: CANbus is divided to multiple areas, you can't use every CANbus you can find for RVC.
It needs comfort CANbus lines.

</pre>

Edited by: DyyD
 
#4 ·
DyyD, that's a superb how-to and a great result, too.

I don't think I'll be tackling myself though - too complex for an old fart like me. I'm far happier working on classic cars - much simpler. I would have tackled it in my younger days, but now I have a bit of a back problem.....

....there's a yellow streak running right down it.
Image
 
#6 ·
Even I know this sort of task is well behond my limited ability I am very impressed,keep the info coming
 
#7 ·
Thank you, a very interesting thread with outstanding detail.
 
#8 ·
Where have your pics gone DyyD? :(
I just bought all the bits:
Image


I'd like to get the connectors labelled up as where they go before I set about trying.
I bought the bits as per the list ^^Controller+Camera = eBay 140euroWiring Loom = Kufatec 60euroBracket = Audi ÂŁ11.87So, all in, less than ÂŁ200
 
#9 ·
#10 ·
Yeh got them too.

I think I got it clear in my head...
1 and 2 go to the front of car to connect into head unit.
3 is earth.
4&5 are CAN connections.
6 is positive feed.Edited by: CocoPops
 
#11 ·
Not even seen thewiring diagm but the eyelet on wire 3 is more likely to be the earth connection

Cheers SpikePS. Thought a bit more about the eyelet connector and realised there will be some main power feed points (stud mounting with nuts and washers)which use this type of cable interface.Still, I'd ratherquery this and be wrong rather thansay nothing and be right.
Edited by: spike
 
#12 ·
Excellent price for the whole kit.Edited by: Boxbrownie
 
#13 ·
Hi DyyD,

It's certainly useful because planning to start the same project...

One question on the 12V power connection, should it be connected to permanent or initia 12V?

BTW, could you send me the PDF file? The pics on your first message does not show up...

Thanks in advance and Cheers...
 
#18 ·
DyyD said:
Hey. Delete this thread.
Hi DyyD, It's good to see you're still active on the Forum.It would be a shame to delete this thread as even without the pictures it's still a great piece of work andvery useful for anyone planning to do a camera retrofit.Why don't you edit your'how to' guide and remove the offer of the PDF then add a few words at the end to say 'sorry' the pictures are no longer available.If you're still happy to share the guide but without the hassle of a continual stream of requests for the extra info, it's possible one of the moderators (Gromit) would hold and distribute the PDFfile to needy owners on your behalf.

Cheers SpikePS. Have you any more upgrades in the pipeline ?
 
#19 ·
spike said:
If you're still happy to share the guide but without the hassle of a continual stream of requests for the extra info, it's possible one of the moderators (Gromit) would hold and distribute the PDFfile to needy owners on your behalf.
I'd be happy to - I already hold the sales training manual and have emailed it to all and sundry, so one more won't make a difference.
 
#21 ·
Hi there. Found the pictures, so this thread is now full again. Hope it helps someone. PDF is missing tho, so I cannot help with that.

I've been so busy that I haven't done any mods lately. Ordered some 9000lumen leds for fogs and now I'm getting RS pedals, but that's about it.

Later this month I'm gonna get APR software, about 200kW after that and winter coming. :)
 
#22 ·
Hi DyyDThanks for restoring the pictures.For the RS pedal covers, I'm sure you will know the Skoda Yeti 'sports' pedals are identical and much cheaper than the Audi parts. For the UK however we don't have the option of adding the RS footrest as the Audi LHD version does not fit our cars.Just had a look on the APR web site and the engine upgrade sounds exciting.

Cheers Spike
 
#23 ·
Hi!

Thanks spike for the info. I didn't know about the RS pedals. I need check it out. Full set pedals with footrest is about 95 euros from eBay. :)
 
#26 ·
For RHD pedal sets the Skoda kit was almost half price compared to the Audi equivalent. Ref this post - I was not totally convinced the kits were the same, so played safe and bought the Audi one. Having since compared part nos of the actual throttle pedal, for RHD at least, they are identical.

Cheers Spike