mud flaps
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Hi Glyne,
Sorry I cannot comment on the S v SE for mudflaps, but asked my local dealer how much it would cost to fit mudflaps, and he quoted me £346.00!!! So please be aware that it will be cost prohibitive if you go through your dealer.
Are there any members out there who have purchased Q3 mudflaps and had them fitted by a professional garage or even a DIY job?
Sorry I cannot comment on the S v SE for mudflaps, but asked my local dealer how much it would cost to fit mudflaps, and he quoted me £346.00!!! So please be aware that it will be cost prohibitive if you go through your dealer.
Are there any members out there who have purchased Q3 mudflaps and had them fitted by a professional garage or even a DIY job?
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I got genuine Audi front flaps from
http://audipartsdirect.co.uk/category/Q3,i.htmlfor £51 and fitted them myself to my SE.
It's not difficult and took about an hour and a half.
Would be quicker with the wheels off but I couldn't find the locking wheel nut adaptor until after I finished the job !
http://audipartsdirect.co.uk/category/Q3,i.htmlfor £51 and fitted them myself to my SE.
It's not difficult and took about an hour and a half.
Would be quicker with the wheels off but I couldn't find the locking wheel nut adaptor until after I finished the job !
any pics of ya Q3 with ya mud flaps fitted...How do they look?..did you think about getting them colour coded. Ive just been quoted £153 by Wearside Audi to have front and rear fitted,extra charge for colour coding them to match my Amalfi white Q3...White mudflaps not very practical i guess.
Nice day so after reading the instructions carefully decided to fit the mud flaps.
I decided not to try and do it with the wheels on, so got the jack out of the side pocket in the boot. Well this took me quite a while as it is clipped in and locked in with the winding handle. I looked in the handbook for the jacking points and looked for the triangle shapes as indicated in the book to locate the jack and could not find them. After washing off the very bottom lip under the door itself, I found them, about 5mm in size! I would suggest that before you get stuck you check that you know how to get the jack out and the jacking points.
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The rear mudflaps were very easy to fit. Simply remove 3 screws already located, secure the mudflaps with the new screws provided, make a small locating hole for a 4th screw and nut and secure. Finally, a couple of clips to tap on and done- took minutes.
The front mudflaps are more difficult. There are 6 screws needed to secure them on each side (provided of course) You need a very small pilot hole for each screw, but for 3 of them you need to secure the back of the screws with the nuts provided. To get to one of them you need to remove a plastic plate underneath, but it is small and easily removed. I would say that this is the hardest screw to secure as it is fiddly getting the nut on.
It took me less than 2 hours. I dabbed a bit of waxoyl on the back of the screws and in the centre of the wheel discs themselves as rust was forming. Can't beat a bit of preventative work
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I decided not to try and do it with the wheels on, so got the jack out of the side pocket in the boot. Well this took me quite a while as it is clipped in and locked in with the winding handle. I looked in the handbook for the jacking points and looked for the triangle shapes as indicated in the book to locate the jack and could not find them. After washing off the very bottom lip under the door itself, I found them, about 5mm in size! I would suggest that before you get stuck you check that you know how to get the jack out and the jacking points.
The rear mudflaps were very easy to fit. Simply remove 3 screws already located, secure the mudflaps with the new screws provided, make a small locating hole for a 4th screw and nut and secure. Finally, a couple of clips to tap on and done- took minutes.
The front mudflaps are more difficult. There are 6 screws needed to secure them on each side (provided of course) You need a very small pilot hole for each screw, but for 3 of them you need to secure the back of the screws with the nuts provided. To get to one of them you need to remove a plastic plate underneath, but it is small and easily removed. I would say that this is the hardest screw to secure as it is fiddly getting the nut on.
It took me less than 2 hours. I dabbed a bit of waxoyl on the back of the screws and in the centre of the wheel discs themselves as rust was forming. Can't beat a bit of preventative work
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