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The fact that I like everything fitted in detail and like factory, on 5F module, there is an error because voltage cable that was connected on factory LCD now isn't connected somewhere. I'm trying to figure out how to correct it, maybe by connecting a resistance, but I don't know what is the LCD's resistance, if anyone know or can calculate resistance?


Could you rig up a test lead so you can use a multi meter to measure the current (amps) while the screen is powered up.
Then use the formulae R (resisance) = V (volts) / I (amps)


Voltage will be a nominal !2V so its just a case of dividing it by the measured Amps to get the Resistance


While I'm writing this, I'm thinking Kostas is way smarter than me on all things electronic and he'll know this already. On the other hand, if you're like me, sometimes I miss the basic things while the brain looks for a more complex answer


Cheers Spike
 

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The fact that I like everything fitted in detail and like factory, on 5F module, there is an error because voltage cable that was connected on factory LCD now isn't connected somewhere. I'm trying to figure out how to correct it, maybe by connecting a resistance, but I don't know what is the LCD's resistance, if anyone know or can calculate resistance?


Could you rig up a test lead so you can use a multi meter to measure the current (amps) while the screen is powered up.
Then use the formulae R (resisance) = V (volts) / I (amps)


Voltage will be a nominal !2V so its just a case of dividing it by the measured Amps to get the Resistance


While I'm writing this, I'm thinking Kostas is way smarter than me on all things electronic and he'll know this already. On the other hand, if you're like me, sometimes I miss the basic things while the brain looks for a more complex answer


Cheers Spike
I think I'm like you spike :tango_face_grin:

that's a fact actually
 

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I used a multimeter to count Ohm in two wires that are connected to LCD, it's about 1900 Ohm, but I don;t knwo if it's normal

I'll see
 

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Here are the pictures after installation, unit seems excellent till now, excellent quality and have firmware, canbus updates. There is a problem with Audi Q3 Can Bus but will be solved are owner told me
 

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Wow, that looks very impressive - well done.
 

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The most important thing for me, is that unit immediately boots after 3sec and it's rear view camera work even if you put reverse at first second. Factory menu is accssible also after 1-2 sec and unit remembers last screen used before switch off car, last screen means factory menu or Android menu.

The fact is that it works both on cars with AUX or AMI that also have factory navigation enabled (like mine), on AMI you just need to buy AMI AUX-In cable and after that, on MEDIA menu you choose AUX-In to have sound from Android unit, I risk it and it worked. Other factory options work like factory, RADIO, NAVI etc.

So when they say that these units work only on cars without factory navigation, they mean that it doesn't work on cars with MMI 3G that has the radio unit on boot.

The only "problem" is the error of missing factory LCD, that I must find a solution when I find some time. There is 12V on one cable but I don't know if that cable is power and the other just diagnostic and not ground, which means it can't be connected using resistance...

Solution is a challenge
 

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Kostas, A very neat job looks really impressive and certainly doesn't look aftermarket well done.
Now the questions, I have a Q3 and haven't got a clue as to what system is fitted, it looks the same as yours as it has the SD card for Nav. it has a display screen that pops up and is approx. 6.5 inches so is my system MMI 3G, it has no way of connecting to internet only Bluetooth for phone. or is the system AMI and needs the cable? how do I tell the difference?. Did you fit an aftermarket reverse cam or was yours already fitted?.

Does the screen look much bigger as it seems to fit in the original aperture.

My main use would be to play video, use google maps no music streaming or stuff like that do you think this is a worthwhile upgrade?.

Thanks
Harry
 

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Hello Harry,

you have MMI RMC for sure, if you had MMI 3G, you would have the high resolution 7" lcd display. If your car has the AUX-in port, then nothing is needed and you only choose media source AUX-In from radio, if you have AMI, you will need an extra cable AMI to AUX, from Ebay you may find it at 5-10 euro. I bought an aftermarket camera with the RSNAV unit, adds extra 20$ and replaces my factory boot handle without any modification. I will put photo later.

screen is of course bigger, it seems to be also, because there are no bezes around the screen so it's 8" HD resolution. For me it worths the upgrade, even if i have the factory navigation. I like gadgets..it's more that a gadget to me.
I used to play videos using AMI port and my iPod, so it was just an option upgrade with android and better resolution screen
 

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Hello Kostas
Thanks for the info it is much appreciated I believe now I have RMC now. In the armrest compartment there is a plug in there this must be the interface you are referring to, there are no cables. Is this the Aux port you are relating too? I take it that the Audi sat nav works ok on the larger screen

Thanks again for your help

Harry
 

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I used a multimeter to count Ohm in two wires that are connected to LCD, it's about 1900 Ohm, but I don;t knwo if it's normal

I'll see

Ref the wiring diagms in this previous post - https://www.q3ownersclub.co.uk/forum/67873-post17.html


It looks like fuse SC31 provides a direct 12v feed to the screen but the earth seems to be via one of the linked modules making it difficult to know what resistance (ohms) you are measuring.
If you pull the fuse and use your meter to check current flow when the screen is on, that should give an accurate amps reading to use in the formulae we discussed previously.
Just make sure your meter can handle at least 10 amps through current


Cheers Spike
 

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Ref the wiring diagms in this previous post - https://www.q3ownersclub.co.uk/forum/67873-post17.html


It looks like fuse SC31 provides a direct 12v feed to the screen but the earth seems to be via one of the linked modules making it difficult to know what resistance (ohms) you are measuring.
If you pull the fuse and use your meter to check current flow when the screen is on, that should give an accurate amps reading to use in the formulae we discussed previously.
Just make sure your meter can handle at least 10 amps through current


Cheers Spike

That's exactly my thought, but don't have time installing factory LCD again to test, will do sometime. But I think the key is on second cable and not the 12v one
 

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That's exactly my thought, but don't have time installing factory LCD again to test, will do sometime. But I think the key is on second cable and not the 12v one

Don't know if it helps but found a schematic for the second cable pin-outs


Cheers Spike
 

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Don't know if it helps but found a schematic for the second cable pin-outs


Cheers Spike

Thanks for sharing spike. I checked on internet for info about termianls 30 and 31, according to your picture.

Terminal 30: 12V battery
Terminal 31: Ground


So a resistanse for sure will do the job, if I find correct one

I will first test using a "10w 330 Ohm resistance" as used succesfully to SAI removal :tango_face_grin:, but I think it will be too much, if it has to do with impedance, maybe it will need need no more than 8-10 Ohm. Everything will be clear when I find some time

Just for information, the error is this:
HTML:
02259 - Information Display and Control Head (Front) (J685) 
            004 - No Signal/Communication
 

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I'm hoping someone can help me. i am unsure what MMI i have. I have 2 SD card slots and a sim card in the middle. i also have the plug in the armrest but it says it us just used for charging phone. i have a 2018 q3 with nav. thanks
 

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I'm hoping someone can help me. i am unsure what MMI i have. I have 2 SD card slots and a sim card in the middle. i also have the plug in the armrest but it says it us just used for charging phone. i have a 2018 q3 with nav. thanks
You have 3G MMI - it's actually quite a clever bit of technology. Was developed by Becker-Kardon I recall back in 2008/9, the hardware contains two Nvidia Tegra processors - one takes care of the car systems displays and the other looks after the navigation. In 3D mode the navigation system will render terrain in 3d as well as major landmarks, in major city centres the buildings can be rendered in 3D. The SIM card slot (or an Android phone connected using rSAP) will give you real time traffic updates (based on the real-time movements of Android phones - 85% market share globally means a lot of data points) and Google map overlays. The system can play DVDs for full motion movies as well as being able to play movies from an SD card.
 
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thanks for your help. Is there anyway that i can get apple carplay. or use google maps with an iphone. that is all i have.

Apple CarPlay - no that came on the next generation of MMI systems and even then it was almost unusably poor (in either Apple CarPlay or Android Auto mode) as the user interface wasn't the same as the rest of the car - counter-intuitive would be polite. I haven't played with the latest 2019 Q3 versions to see if it's improved any beyond the 1st feeble attempt.

I'm in the Android camp and have my Galaxy S10 connected as a Bluetooth audio source (I subscribe to Amazon Music Unlimited) and with the Alexa app installed on my phone I can access the music library using voice commands. I've heard of at least one iPhone user doing exactly the same thing - so I assume you can get Alexa on Apple iOS?

Google Maps - get yourself a data SIM card (full sized) I'm using a 12 month one from 3 https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01J1KI9AW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 When it expires just bin it and buy another...
 

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You can't pass on the Wi-Fi signal to the MMI but you can however use the integrated data modem and roof antenna to connect the Q3 to the Internet using a SIM card.

Using the rSAP mode on your device will release all the RF cell tower connections of the phone to the car electronics, meaning you won't be able to use your phone for anything because for my knowledge the access point provided by the MMI is only there to allow media sharing, not give Wi-Fi to passengers (correct me if I am wrong).
 

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You can't pass on the Wi-Fi signal to the MMI but you can however use the integrated data modem and roof antenna to connect the Q3 to the Internet using a SIM card.

Using the rSAP mode on your device will release all the RF cell tower connections of the phone to the car electronics, meaning you won't be able to use your phone for anything because for my knowledge the access point provided by the MMI is only there to allow media sharing, not give Wi-Fi to passengers (correct me if I am wrong).
I'll have to correct you there m80 - the rSAP (Remote SIM access profile) is Bluetooth (so short range wireless data comms) profile capability related rather than 'Wireless' in the long-range celluar connection context. It's a mute point as Apple for reasons best known to themselves decided that adopting all of the Bluetooth protocol stack wasn't for them so an iPhone won't support the technology most Android users are oblivious to having as standard.

So with rSAP you can simultaneously - receive/make voice calls and have a data connection...in fact the data-download stops if you are using the phone - you'll only ever know because the Google map tiles aren't refreshed on a long phone conversation. rSAP isn't without it's faults in that if your phone receives a text message whilst connected it will only ever be shown in the car even though it's actually residing in the phone...yeah that's pants too and for that reason I'd recommend the 12 month data SIM path as the way to go and this supports having a Wifi hotspot for passengers as well.
 
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